READ FIRST BOARD RULES AND CUSTOM SUPPORT FAQ

[phorty]

In here you will find the rules of the board and the custom support faq's

the rules of the board

1.If a question was answerd do not reply unless you have other info to give them.
2.No topping, its not needed in this board, if your topic gets to the 2nd page make a new one.
3.no fighting, there rarely are ever fights in here but just incase.
4.always check the official threads and the main page to see if any other user has the same problem as you.
5. if you have a body or head idea, pm me or cmd and we will add it to the list, do not post it on the main board.
6.no "what can i make out of" posts, there's no use for them, just check the official head & body ideas post to figure out what you can use a certain fig for.
7.no pic request topics, just like "what can i make out of" posts, they're not needed, if you want a pic, look for yourself on websites, like OWW, & Google.
8.when replying to a topic helping out someone, don't say something that was already said, or directly quote what someone said, saying nothing else, that's spamming, & we at WF, do not tolerate spam.
9.If your post was deleted, there is always a reason why. Nobody's post get's deleted for no reason. Some reason's it could have been deleted is either by accident, there official threads for that type of question, or if you topped it. If your thread gets deleted either pm me or cmd and ask why. dont post it on the main board. But if you know that your post got deleted becouse you topped it feel free to repost it.
10. If something you made gets added to this thread, but your not given credit. pm me, and i will give credit.

[phorty]

Formulas
Official Recipe Post

Custom Support FAQs
credit goes to the top Customizers of this Board + Cosmicspidey
Just getting started?
Customizing Terminology

Part Switches and Basics (Go here first)
Yet another walkthrough on the Subject of just getting started

How do I get the peg out of the head?

How Do I separate Arms And Upper Legs with out killing the Torso?

DA /RA leg Transplant Surgery

Dismantling a DA body


Accesories and Arenas
How do I make a Hell in a Cell?
How do I make a custom ring?
How can I make Rey's Spring Board Launcher?
How do I make weapons?
What are some Deathmatch recipes?
How can I pad my jakks hardcore/backlash ring?
What are good measurements for a 6-Sided ring?

How to make Championship Belts

Modifying heads
How do I fit a TTL head on an RA body?
How do I get the hat off of CS2 Sargeant Slaughter?
How can I take rubber hair of off a figure/How do i take off molded beards??

Painting
What type of paint should I use?
Do I need to use sealer?
What brand of sealer should I use?
What types of sealer are there?
My paint is too shiny or too dull. How do I fix that?

Creating

A Link to molding and part creating

[phorty]

How do I make a Hell in a Cell?

You will need…

-About 15 steel dowels
-Hardware cloth(chicken wire, only square)
-Soddering Iron(Hobby Shop)
-19 guage wire
-Silver Spraypaint

1.) First, take the dowels and make them into a square shape |_| four times. Using the Soddering Iron, put them together into a cube shape so it is like a box. The actual size depends on the ring you are using. When measured out, there should be 4" between the side of the cell and the ring. Only put 3 of the sides together for now.

2.) Get the Hardware cloth, and sodder it onto each side. Cut off different pieces for each side. DON'T WRAP IT AROUND. Go ahead and put it on the 4th side as well.

3.) Take some more dowels, and sodder them ontop of the caging so that the cage is between the frame and the supporting beams. Attach them so they make a -|-|-|- shape. the underline being the bottom of the cage, and the dashes and vertical lines behind the supporting beams. Do this for each side. DO NOT DO THIS FOR THE TOP!

4.) Using the little hinges, Sodder them every 5" along the top of the 4th side. Being very careful, sodder the other end of the hinge to the cage itelf. You are now able to move the cage side up and down(Don't try to attempt until Metal is cooled and stable).

5.)Now comes the top of the cage. Look at the sides of the cage, and measure out pieces of dowel that will connect the opposite ends of each dowel so that it appears to have a connecting pipe from one side to the other. When completed, the top should look like a giant Tic-Tac-Toe board(with one added line in each direction).

6.) Now come the main supports on the top. Find the very center of the top of the cage, add put a 2" long piece of dowel vertically(sticking up). Measure from the middle of each side to the center stake. Cut pieces that long, and then sodder them to the center stake and center of each pipe /|\.

7.) The door- To make the door, find a point anywhere on the side of the cell, and cut it out. To get the correct height, measure out the size of a TTL Big Show figure. If he can fit through, any figure can. Surround the sides of the piece with the dowels, and then surround the outside of the hole with dowels to. That makes the door, and the door frame. Using the hinges like before, affix the door. For added looks, you can add the chain that comes with the TTL 7 Undertaker.

8.) The hole- To make the hole, do exactly as the door, only put it on the top of the cell(duh!). It works best if put next to one of the supports, and the hinge is hidden from plain sight. Put a small piece of double-sided tape on the side opposite the hinges, and it will stay closed until needed.

NOTE- Steel Dowels can be replaced with Wooden Dowels. They are cheaper, but don't look near as well. If you use the steel, you don't need spraypaint. The soddering Iron can be replaced with hot glue, but again, doesn't look as good.

I am not entirely sure, but I may be thinking about a small welding iron instead of a soddering iron. You may want to look into that before buying one.

How do i make weapons?

Barbedwire bat
take some little ties from wwe packages(usaly comes in boxed sets but my draft Rock had some to) and take a wCw or ECW baseball bat and wrap the ties around

Singapore canes: you need 6 toothpicks, glue 3 of the ends (of 3 toothpicks) together in a triangle. Do this again and then place the two unglued sides together and voila

Some Deathmatch Ideas are-
Barbwire TLC - Name Explains

Flaming Tables - Name Explains

Fans Bring the Weapons Match - Just have your fans or whatever you use bring various weapons

Lumberjack Lighttube- Basic Lumberjack match only Lumberjacks have Light Tubes

Log Cabin of Glass Deathmatch- Lightubes in a giant square. 3 or 4 Cabins in a match

Circus Deathmatch - Barbwire Net across the ropes and a giant scaffold over or near the ring. Done in Japan with Matsunaga and In the U.S. with MadMan Pondo and J.C. Bailey on the 2nd Night of Ultra Styles Clash
Click the link below for a picture of the set up.
circusdeath.iwamidsouthwrestling.com

Thumbtack deathmatch

Barbwire Rope

Caribbean Spider Web- Barbwire on Ropes shaped like X on 2 sides of the ring and Rubbing Alcohol pit on one side and whatever on the other.

Cactus Death Match.

(For more Information on the Circus Death Match at the IWA Midsouth, go to www.iwamidsouthwrestling.com or order the tape on www.smartmarkvideo.com. The Name of the tape is Ultra Styles Clash and it is a two tape set with Ace Steel vs. A.J. Styles on the First Night and A.J. Styles vs. Colt Cabana and the Circus Deathmatch on the 2nd night)

Tables- To make a table (these can be really awesome) you cut a rectangle out of a piece of cardboard of whatever size of the table you want. You then cut it in half so there are two squares. You then set them the way they were before they were cut inhalf and STRONGLY tape 2-3 toothpicks over the broken parts to stick them back together. For legs you use straws and tape them whatever way u can to keep them on. (In addition u can cut the table whatever way u want and then use several more toothpicks to keep them together)

Ladders- Cut out two rectangles of large sizes (the sizes of 1 of the sides of the ladder u want) then tape the top two pieces together tightly and use a magic marker to color the cardboard to make it a ladder.


Glass I use the CD Gem Case's and smash them up!

Blood The fake blood from halloween works and it come's off easily or ketchup.

Rey Spring Board Launcher

You will need

Glue Gun
x20 popsicle sticks
x9 mechanicle pencils.ather up the springs.

3. Glue 8 springs around the perimiter of one of the bases. Then place the last one in the middle

000
000 = (Springs in shape of square)
000

4. Glue other base on top.

Put Rey on it, press down and he should jump fairly good

How can I make a custom ring?

-Parts:

20"x20" particle board, 3/4" thick

4 1/2" Dowels (10" long)

16 small hook screws

328" elastic string

20 sq. in. Cloth

Staple gun

-Instructions

1. Put the cloth on the board, and Trace a circle using the dowels in the corners of the ring, about 1/2" away from the actual cut corner.

2. Drill out the circles, with the cloth intact.

3. Stick the dowels into the holes, 5 1/4" on top, 4" onthe bottom.

4. Staple the cloth into place.

5. Drill the tiny hooks into the dowels

6. Cut the elastic string into 4 82" pieces.

7. run the string under the hooks. You will have 2 extra inches to tie.

8. You will now have a prototype for your ring

9. Use foamies to create pads in the corner.

10. Make some aprons, and you're finished

[phorty]

How do I fit a TTL head on an RA body?

A tutorial with pictures is located here:

coming soon

[phorty]

What type of paint should I use?

There are many paint choices available. However, always use acrylic paint! Never, ever use enamel model paint.


Your cheapest option is Apple Barrel, which sells for 33 cents a bottle at Wal-Mart. It is also available at Michaels Craft Store for about 70 cents.

For around a dollar you can buy a bottle of Folkart at AC Moore. Decoart and Delta Creamcoat sell for around the same and can be found at various arts & crafts stores, like Michaels or Hobby Lobby.

It is recommended that you thin out all of these paints before using them. Simply add a little water to the paint and it will brush on smoother.


A step up from these paints are model paints. These include Citadel/Warhammer, Testors Model Master Acryl, and Tamiya Color. These paints are designed specifically for painting models, which are very similar toi custom figures. These paints sell for about $2.50 a bottle at hobby stores like Hobbytown or Hobby Lobby. Wal-Mart has a limited selection of Testors Model Master Acryl for around a dollar.

I recommend using model paints. They do not need to be watered down. They cover well and create a smooth finish. Here's a testimonial from Fix-ups Board mod TXR:

For mass amounts of painting..I use a brand called "Tamiya Color". Its a Japanese Import. A guy at a local hobby shop imports the stuff in, but Im afraid he'll stop getting shipments so I try not to rely on it. The particles are extremely small therefore it ensures smooth paintjobs. It is also quite durable.

Here's what uber-customizer Customs-Etc has to say:

[Testors] Model Master Acryl is what i use. It is already thinned out to use in airbrushes or paint on with ease.

Its quite expensive at $2.48 per bottle for a size bottle that is half the size of the Folk Art bottles. But i think it works great.

I personally also use Testors Model Master Acryl. The range of colors is amazing. The Hobbytown in my area must carry at least 120 different colors. Also, it is quite durable. Once the paint has dried, it often doesn't need to be sealed.

[phorty]

Customizing Terminology

Accessories: Using materials to make a custom weapon, ring, arena, etc., to further add detail and style to a custom. Also, to fill demand for an item not produced by a toy company. Some examples would be a Singapore cane for the Sandman, a staple gun for new jack, or a mini hand for Mae Young.

Articulation: Any joint that is movable on the figure, arm, legs, head, etc.

Carded: Custom figure is placed in a package. Also known as (MOC) mint on card.

Clean: A very well done paint job that is practically flawless.

Digi: A short term for a digital camera.

Dry brushing: Whipping the brush dry of any wetness, and brushing in what little paint is left on the brush.

F.H.S.: A Full Head Sculpt for the figure.

Fix-up: Switching of body parts with very little other work being done. Some consider this not being a true Custom, henceforth, Fix-up; I personally believe it's a matter of opinion.

Hasbro Conversion: a Hasbro Converted into a TTL with the exact outfit and color of the Hasbro figure.

Modded: To modify a figure in any way, shape, or form (usually adding some type of clay or sanding down some part of the body).

Overtones: Painting a base tone, than going over it with other tones, to give it the perfect color.

Playable: The custom's joints are still movable; it can be played with or posed without the fear of damaging the custom.

Posable: Same as the definition for Playable, it is just more of a mature term to use, taking away the idea of actually playing with toys.

Posed: A custom made in a specific pose (usually his trademark pose). The joints, on most occasions, have been sculpted over, leaving no articulation.

Print-out's: The "art" of printing out a design or other type of graphic off the computer, to glue or attach on to your custom. Normally used by those who aren't skilled enough to paint t-shirt logos, etc.

Proto: An unfinished version or Prototype, of the figure.

Recipes: A list of parts needed to make a specific custom.

Reference Pics: Pictures of the person you are basing your custom on.

Sealer: The stuff used to seal your custom so the paint will not chip. It comes in Matte or Glossy finish. Many choose Matte finish because it doesn't leave your custom looking too shiny.

Sloppy: A paintjob that been applied too thick and/or is poorly done.

Tribute Custom: Normally, a tribute to the wrestler. Most of the time because of retiring, or a career ending injury or sadly, an untimely death.

TTL Conversion: A TTL converted into a Hasbro / LJN in the exact same outfit. I know we now have R3, but TTL was the basic Jakks figure after BCA's and the term is still commonly used. R3 will catch on very soon though.

Credit: Baity

[phorty]

Do I need to use sealer?

If you are painting over a joint, it is imperative that you seal the paint or it will be rubbed off when you try to move the joint. The longer you let the sealer dry, the less likely the paint will rub of. One coat, two max, should be sufficient over joints.

However, it isn't necessary to seal the pain on any other area of the body. It will help prevent chipping during play, and help give the figure a uniform appearance, but it isn't necessary.

[phorty]

What brand of sealer should I use?

Sealer is sealer. No brand works particularly better than any other, in my experience. Usually, it is just easiest to buy the sealer made by the the company that makes the paint you use. Most brands of paint have their own sealer.

[phorty]

What types of sealer are there?

There are two types of sealer: spray-on and brush-on. Neither type is significantly superior to the other.

Brush on sealers are easier to control, and get in the exact place you want it to go. However, it takes a lot longer.

Spray-on sealers are very convient and easy to use. However, if you handle the figure before the sealer has dried completely, it often becomes sticky.

[phorty]

My paint is too shiny or too dull. How do I fix that?

You can chage the finish of the paint on the figure by putting a coat of clear sealer over the figure.

There are three finishes of sealer: Flat/Matte, Semi-Gloss/Satin, and Gloss. Flat/Matte is normal, Semi-Gloss/Satin is kind of shiny, and Gloss is very shiny.

Flat/Matte sealer gives figures the most normal appearance, compared to the figures produced by toy companies.

Semi-Gloss/Sation can be used if you want something to appear shiny, like vinyl tights or leather boots (think of the tights Eugene wears). Howver, it looks awkward if this finish is used on skin.

Gloss sealer is generally too shiny for figure customs.

[phorty]

How do I get the peg out of the head?

Put the head in a pot of boiling water for 30 seconds. Take the head out and IMMEDIATELY pull the peg out with pliers.

[phorty]

How do I switch lower legs?
How do I switch forearms?

There are two methods for removing forearms and lower legs. This also works for wrists and ankles.

Method 1-

A tutorial with pictures is located here:

groups.msn.com/cosmicspideycustoms/removinglowerlegs.msnw?Page=1

Method 2-

Boil the joint in water for about 30 seconds. Then just take a blunt object (like a screwdriver) and push the pin completely out of the joint. Replace the part, reboil the joint, and slide the pin right back in.

[phorty]

How do I get the hat off of CS2 Sargeant Slaughter?

Boil the head in water for about 30 seconds. This will soften the glue enough to pry the hat off with a screwdriver.

Sand off the remaining glue that is on the head.

Put a coat of sealer on the head to even out the color of the skin tone (sanding will dull the tone slightly).

[phorty]

How can i pad my jakks hardcore/backlash ring?
There is a few options you have you can either put foam over the top that can be bought at walmart for around 0.50 a sheet. Or you can put a tshirt over the top.

[phorty]

How can i take rubber hair of off a figure?
boil the head and then slowly and carefuly peel it off

How do i take off molded on beards?
Using sand paper carefully sand it off

[CMD]

What are good measurements for a 6-Sided ring?


Credit: XTC: World

[phorty]

How do i separate a torso?
groups.msn.com/cosmicspideycustoms/splittingratorsos.msnw

[Pope Kiril I]

As a new wave of data and good information appears on the boards I will be adding useful ones to this section

this Info the credit will go to HR2X and refers to DA customs:

Yeah, if you're customizing DA's, you'll see this a lot.



Obviously where the red is is the part where the paint rubs off.

To fix this, all you need is some paint (I use Testors.. it's alittle stronger than Folk art/ Delta Ceramcoat), superglue and possibly some fine sandpaper.



All I did was paint the red parts with some black Testors paint. After that dried, I covered it with some brush on superglue and tested it. Since it only rubbed in 2 spots, I grabbed some fine sandpaper and sanded the spots down. after I sanded them down, I repainted them and coated it with superglue.

009 notes: it is often suggested to use paint sealer as opposed to Superglue if using Glue as a sealer remember to clean the brushes very well after use

HR2X note: I'm talking about brush-on superglue, and no, paint sealer won't work here, the glue forms a durable topcoat which will stand up to the friction of the joints movement.. sealer won't hold up to that.

[Pope Kiril I]

Taking of TTL heads, cracking torsos
Swapping


These are various Cutomizing Videos found by WF Member TooShort4 more will follow as found

[Pope Kiril I]

Credit For this Goes to member BoyWonder 92488

After seeing my Taz custom, people asked me how I switched his arms and legs w/o opening the torso or crotch, and I did a write up but it just wasnt much w/o pictures (hard to visualize). So here ya go!

Arm switch:

For the shoudlers, heat up the shoulder joint to where its pretty soft and take a small thin exacto knife and cut the joint that connects the shoulder to the peg that sticks out of the body. Be sure to only do this in one side of the shoulder joint. Then wiggle the shoulder out, heat it up a little more (to keep it flexible), do the same to another figure and get the shoulder onto the new figure's shoulder joint. It should hopefully fit on there fine and if it gets into place like normal, take some super glue (preferably future glue, this stuff is amazing) and put it into the joint to re connect the peg to where it was once connected. Be sure to keep the shoulder joint moving to prevent it from sticking in place. Also keep in mind that the joint may tear a little bit as pictured below. It doesnt bother me too much, but it may some others, I would suggest that since it is very likely to tear, to try and get the tear to be on the underside of the shoulder.



Stick the cutting tool in the socket to cut the joint, and this is what it should look like afterwards.





Switching legs:

As for legs, I acidentally discovered this technique while I was attempting to open a practice torso. Boil some water. Take off the bottom of the leg (to make room in the pot). the submerge the entire waist in the boiling water. Let the joints that hold the thigh to the crotch get really, really hot and soft. Then tap it off on a towel to remove access water and while it is still hot (be careful), rotate the thigh so it goes up and side by side with the torso. Pry it completely out of the joint. Do the same with the legs you wanna switch in. Now re heat the legs, and on one side of the peg, cut a V shape in the part of the peg that holds it in the crotch. get it really hot again, try and get the uncut side of the joint partially into the socket and twist and push, this may take a while, but it will go in eventually.




And inside look of the leg



Imagine that the leg is still in the socket, and that is the key position to popping it out of place. You'll be able to do that once its hot enough, but it needs to be VERY hot.



That is what the peg should look like. Be sure it is a "V" shape as the tip of the V is what is keeping the leg in place.