Gigante Kinzer Keel
Mid-Carder
WF 10+ Year Member
Joined on: Apr 26, 2011 13:31:33 GMT -5
Posts: 339
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Post by Gigante Kinzer Keel on Apr 16, 2015 13:42:24 GMT -5
Ambrose 4:69 says I just mastered your T*tties
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Post by D.B.K. on Apr 16, 2015 17:09:46 GMT -5
the champ is here:
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Post by AlexWestCollects on Apr 16, 2015 17:48:40 GMT -5
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Deleted
Joined on: May 6, 2024 20:22:18 GMT -5
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Apr 16, 2015 17:54:48 GMT -5
Nice stuff AlexWestCollects! It's such a shame that match didn't really live up to expectations.
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Post by AlexWestCollects on Apr 16, 2015 17:56:27 GMT -5
Nice stuff AlexWestCollects! It's such a shame that match didn't really live up to expectations. Honestly for what it was I thought it was decent. I expected less lol. I actually was there live so felt it would be pretty cool to make this fig since it was technically his last match.
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Deleted
Joined on: May 6, 2024 20:22:18 GMT -5
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Apr 16, 2015 17:58:12 GMT -5
Nice stuff AlexWestCollects! It's such a shame that match didn't really live up to expectations. Honestly for what it was I thought it was decent. I expected less lol. I actually was there live so felt it would be pretty cool to make this fig since it was technically his last match. Oh cool, you were there? Awesome! Loving the fix-up, always like that IW shirt. I also like the Blue/Black one he wore with the blue Bandana.
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Post by AlexWestCollects on Apr 16, 2015 18:14:18 GMT -5
Honestly for what it was I thought it was decent. I expected less lol. I actually was there live so felt it would be pretty cool to make this fig since it was technically his last match. Oh cool, you were there? Awesome! Loving the fix-up, always like that IW shirt. I also like the Blue/Black one he wore with the blue Bandana. Yep saw it live.
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Post by Joe/Smurf on Apr 16, 2015 18:24:38 GMT -5
Best torso for an Alex Riley Elite? I was thinking E17 Ryder if I can find another one? Not that I'd suggest anyone else use such a rare figure for the rage master, but I used DH Smith for mine.
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gawd6sic6™
Main Eventer
" I cross the lines you love to hate "
Joined on: Jan 13, 2009 13:50:08 GMT -5
Posts: 4,868
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Post by gawd6sic6™ on Apr 17, 2015 0:38:03 GMT -5
Best torso for an Alex Riley Elite? I was thinking E17 Ryder if I can find another one? Not that I'd suggest anyone else use such a rare figure for the rage master, but I used DH Smith for mine. Orndorf, skin tone match..looks great and fits his body very well.
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JOEL2SLEEP
Main Eventer
formerly known as Kick Fiend
Joined on: Dec 31, 2003 2:49:12 GMT -5
Posts: 1,045
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Post by JOEL2SLEEP on Apr 18, 2015 10:56:02 GMT -5
Anyone planning on buying either of Los Matadores to use as a Tito Santana "El Matador" custom?
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Post by FWE on Apr 18, 2015 12:34:59 GMT -5
someone who headswapped the new BP rusev head with the elite and wants to show me how it looks like please?
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Post by Pedigree on Apr 18, 2015 13:38:56 GMT -5
Anyone planning on buying either of Los Matadores to use as a Tito Santana "El Matador" custom? Niiiiice! I'm going to do the same o ce the HOF Tito is released!
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Post by POOR-ly Cuyler on Apr 18, 2015 23:27:51 GMT -5
Swapped from jericho head to cody on my Shane fixup.
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Deleted
Joined on: May 6, 2024 20:22:18 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Apr 19, 2015 14:03:37 GMT -5
I have a question. How do you shrink Jakks figures heads down to a Mattel sized head?
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Post by rustyy on Apr 19, 2015 14:23:14 GMT -5
I have a question. How do you shrink Jakks figures heads down to a Mattel sized head? Youd be better off trying to figure out rocket science lol. But really I think someone like AxeHennig should know.
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Post by theaxehennig on Apr 19, 2015 14:51:57 GMT -5
I have a question. How do you shrink Jakks figures heads down to a Mattel sized head? @zombieapocalypse: might want to move this, since so many people ask. Allow me to preface this by saying, the process is very difficult, time-consuming, expensive, and takes time to master techniques. This is not a quick and easy, "how do you shrink heads" question that is answered and you're able to convert all Jakks heads to Mattel within a weekend. It took me two years to get to a point where I am comfortable with the craft and texhnique. Also remember the head will not be just a smaller (painted) head. It will be completely white, may have distortions, and may not turn out at all. As with everything, practice increases your chances of success. -Make a mold of the original head with a high-stretch latex. I use Smooth-On two-part (equal parts) liquid rubber or Alumilite's High Strength 2, which is not a two "equal" part solution. This mold will need to cure overnight. -Pour a ratio of 3:1 Hydroshrink:water solution into the mold. Depending on the size of the beginning head to the desired ending size, you may need to readjust the ratio and add or remove water from the solution. You must mix and pour very quickly. The solution goes from essentially milk to rubber within about 7 seconds. -Once the Hydroshrink head cures within the mold, you need to very carefully remove it from the mold. The head is very fragile (think of the egg white in a hard boiled egg). This is why you need a high tear strength mold. Either place the head in a very low humidity area or place in a food dehydrator. -As the head sits in a low humidity/dehydrator, the water will remove from the head, this shrinking the head. If you use a food dehydrator, do not place it in overnight. It will shrink too much. Watch the head. Once the desired size is achieved, remove the head from the dehydrator and make another mold (like the first step). This step is the trickiest and most of the error occurs during this step. I use Alumilite because as the head is casting in the "new" mold, it will continue to shrink. The head loses a great amount of fine detail when water evaporates from the head, into the mold. With Alumilite, the evaporation within the mold does not distort the head's features. -Remove the head and toss it once the mold has cured. I would put a little talcum powder on a q-tip and rub it inside the mold, to decrease the likelihood of water remaining in eye areas or ears (which will distort your cast). -I use Alumilite white casting (two-part) resin because it's easy to paint and has the relative hardness of the factory plastic. Mix equal parts of the resins and pour into the mold. Be sure to tap the mold and squeeze it so the resin flows into all areas of the mold. In about ten minutes, remove the casted head and you have a shrunken head. A few pics during the process:
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Deleted
Joined on: May 6, 2024 20:22:18 GMT -5
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Apr 19, 2015 14:55:29 GMT -5
I have a question. How do you shrink Jakks figures heads down to a Mattel sized head? @zombieapocalypse: might want to move this, since so many people ask. -Make a mold of the original head with a high-stretch latex. I use Smooth-On two-part (equal parts) liquid rubber or Alumilite's High Strength 2, which is not a two "equal" part solution. This mold will need to cure overnight. -Pour a ratio of 3:1 Hydroshrink:water solution into the mold. Depending on the size of the beginning head to the desired ending size, you may need to readjust the ratio and add or remove water from the solution. You must mix and pour very quickly. The solution goes from essentially milk to rubber within about 7 seconds. -Once the Hydroshrink head cures within the mold, you need to very carefully remove it from the mold. The head is very fragile (think of the egg white in a hard boiled egg). This is why you need a high tear strength mold. Either place the head in a very low humidity area or place in a food dehydrator. -As the head sits in a low humidity/dehydrator, the water will remove from the head, this shrinking the head. If you use a food dehydrator, do not place it in overnight. It will shrink too much. Watch the head. Once the desired size is achieved, remove the head from the dehydrator and make another mold (like the first step). This step is the trickiest and most of the error occurs during this step. I use Alumilite because as the head is casting in the "new" mold, it will continue to shrink. The head loses a great amount of fine detail when water evaporates from the head, into the mold. With Alumilite, the evaporation within the mold does not distort the head's features. -Remove the head and toss it once the mold has cured. I would put a little talcum powder on a q-tip and rub it inside the mold, to decrease the likelihood of water remaining in eye areas or ears (which will distort your cast). -I use Alumilite white casting (two-part) resin because it's easy to paint and has the relative hardness of the factory plastic. Mix equal parts of the resins and pour into the mold. Be sure to tap the mold and squeeze it so the resin flows into all areas of the mold. In about ten minutes, remove the casted head and you have a shrunken head. Alright, thanks man!
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Deleted
Joined on: May 6, 2024 20:22:18 GMT -5
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Apr 19, 2015 15:21:03 GMT -5
Gonna add it to page 1 axe, thanks for the tutorial
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Post by theaxehennig on Apr 19, 2015 16:29:05 GMT -5
Gonna add it to page 1 axe, thanks for the tutorial I'll make it more readable soon and will add pics once I shrink perfectlyrude's heads.
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Post by The Assassin on Apr 19, 2015 16:39:22 GMT -5
Man there are so many heads I would love to have enlarged to fit RA style customs. It's a shame it's such a difficult/skilled process. Just a few examples off the top of my head:
-TNA series 1 Jeff Jarrett -TNA 2-packs Konnan -TNA masked fury Sting (the best Sting headscan to-date in my opinion) -R3 masked Kane (STILL THE ONLY ACCURATELY-SHAPED FULL-MASK KANE HEAD!) -R3 Rikishi -Final Count Hulk Hogan (my favorite Hogan headscan ever) -Mattel basic Finlay -Mattel Rick Rude -Mattel WM30 Shawn Michaels -Mattel Arn Anderson -Mattel Road Warrior Hawk -Mattel Road Warrior Animal
I could go on all day.
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